One of the things I love about the Marlborough Tavern is
that they’re always switching it up – as well as a delicious regular menu, they
love to host theme nights highlighting different great produce. When I saw the
board outside advertising a South-West seafood night, I just couldn’t resist.
Is there anything more summery than fresh seafood? With their beautiful walled
beer garden, draped with rambling vines, the Marlborough Tavern is fabulous on
a summer’s evening – but the bar and restaurant are equally cosy in the winter,
with fat votive candles burning, a gently worn parquet floor, and intimate
alcove tables for the perfect date night.
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| Tuna carpaccio |
When we arrived just before eight, the restaurant was
already buzzing with plenty of happy diners – unsurprising, since the smells
floating from the kitchen were absolutely mouth-watering. To start, I ordered the
seared tuna carpaccio with poached lobster and a crab bon bon, all served with
a fabulous chilli and mango salsa. It was almost too beautiful to eat, a
fabulous rainbow of fresh colours – but I couldn’t resist. The flavours were
light and bright, the sweet mango perfectly balancing the richness of the
seafood. On the back of the menu was a handy guide to wine pairing for each
course, so I washed it all down with a glass of Viognier de l’Hospitalet, a
lovely sweet and spicy white. I couldn’t
help cleaning my plate, but I have to admit that I think I liked my dining
companion’s choice even more – scallops, Parma ham, smoked bacon foam and
Stornoway black pudding. It’s certainly a flavour combination that I’ve had
before, but when it’s done this well you can see why it’s become a favourite –
the rich, smoky black pudding, the salty Parma ham, and the sweet, delicate
scallops are a match made in heaven.
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| Cornish brill |
The main course was definitely my stand-out dish for the
evening – roasted Cornish brill, with crab & chervil gnocchi, crab bisque
and fennel. The fish was perfectly cooked – light and flaky, with crispy skin –
and the gnocchi was a great touch, the chervil making the perfect counterpoint
to the crab. As far as the bisque was concerned, I had to restrain myself (with
difficulty) from licking the plate – it was that
good. With all those rich flavours, the dish could have been overpowering, but
it was nicely balanced by fresh touches – from the delicate, floral flavours of
the braised fennel, through the tangy sharpness of pickled fennel, to bright,
citrusy coriander. It was all beautifully put together, and went down
fabulously with a glass of Petit Chenin Ken Forrester. My dining companion’s
dish was a little safer – Lyme Regis megrim sole, herb crushed potatoes and
noilly prat cream, with samphire, asparagus and pickled grapes. Although it was
a little less summery, the flavours were still gorgeous, and the pickled grapes
were an especially nice touch.
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| Panna cotta |
For dessert, I couldn’t resist the dark and white
chocolate brownie, with cherry sorbet and praline. I’m not usually a fan of chocolate
and cherry, but in fact this was fabulous because the cherry flavours were
completely natural. I must admit I couldn’t find the white chocolate in my
brownie, but it was still gorgeous fudgy and rich. The whole thing went
beautifully with a glass of Els Pyreneus Maury Grenat – a fortified red wine
full of big, juicy, fruit flavours. My dining companion chose a buttermilk
panna cotta with ginger cake and rhubarb – not really my sort of thing, but he
assured me it was absolutely delicious.
As you’ve probably gathered, we had a fabulous evening
and I can’t recommend it highly enough. Although these dishes aren’t on the
regular menu, the care taken to match flavours and textures, to pair dishes
with the perfect wines, and to present everything beautifully, all speaks to
how good the Marlborough Tavern is. Keep an eye out for their next themed menu
and in the meantime, pop in on a warm evening and enjoy their gorgeous beer
garden. Cheers!
